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Gourmet Visits Madame Lee

The dynamics of the city are changing, and consequently, so is the dining.

Areas that were once never particularly on the gourmet map are starting to blossom with new adventures into eating. Take the area near Chiang Mai University, around and behind Suthep Rd., for example. A number of new more upscale restaurants have opened in the last year, bringing with them a variety of different types of cuisine. Last week I took a friend with me to experience one of them - Madame Lee.

Madame Lee opened last November and is very accessible, positioned conveniently on Canal Rd (see map). You can also easily come from behind the restaurant via Soi Wat U-Mong.

This contemporary-styled place has an element of simple yet sophisticated Asian design that immediately makes you feel calm and relaxed. The tables are set with fresh white cloths, while the series of glass panel-like windows let in the light, opening up the space.

Friendly low key staff greeted and seated us, leaving us alone to study the menu. This is a multi-cuisine restaurant, or as the slogan goes, "a multi-cuisine, a multi-feeling", so don't be surprised when you see that the tables are laid with a variety of different eating utensils. For the most part the menu consists of Thai, Chinese and Japanese food, with some fusion and European dishes making an appearance too. We went for a fair mix, opting for the Luk Chin Kung Num Daeng first.

Tender shrimp balls arrived, sat in a gentle Chinese gravy. These were accompanied by rolls of fresh cabbage stuffed with pork mince and topped off with an intriguing looking Japanese shitake mushroom.

To sustain my European pallet we ordered Spaghetti Cream Cheese Bacon. The rich white sauce and smoky crispy bacon bits were quickly devoured and equally quickly followed by a Madam Lee specialty - Steak Plaa Krapong. This fillet of grilled sea bass comes with a slightly spicy spring onion sauce that was invented by the Madame herself, making this dish definitely worth a try.

A rather good-looking pork chop with French fries passed us by, and that was before we went back to reconsider the menu. But realistically, it was time for dessert. My friend became thoroughly engrossed with her Blueberry Lemon Pie, sweet fiend that she is, while I tried out the Carrot Cream Cheese cake; a supremely moist winner!

Madame Lee is smart but unfussy, and the friendly staff knows when to leave you alone. And with so many different eating choices, it should soon become popular, especially with Chiang Mai's ever growing mixed groups of Asian and European diners.