Chiang Mai (Northern Thailand) Tourist Guide


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Kong Lor Cave -
A Remarkable Treasure in the Heart of Laos

Text & Images: Merin Waite

A stunning natural setting, waterfalls and forests, mountains that look like great curtains of rock strung across a carpet of rice fields and, to top it all, a cave with a navigable river running some seven kilometres under a towering karst peak. Where is this remarkable place and why is it not well known? The answer lies in its remote location and the fact that it is in a country that until the late nineties had little tourist infrastructure.

Khammoun province lies in the centre of Laos, one side bordering Thailand, the other Vietnam. It forms the 'waist' of the country and is a fascinating region. Looking at it from the town of Nakhon Phanon in Thailand across the great River Mekong what strikes the viewer first is the endless series of mountains that can be seen. The topography is in marked contrast to the flat farmland of the Thai side and truly dramatic.

Characteristically for the limestone they are composed of, these mountains are riddled with caves. From the Laos town of Takhek, the capital of the province, it's possible to travel to interesting and enchanting destinations within 30 or so kilometres. Takhek itself is not without charm, retaining much of the French influence in its architecture, the neglect of which only adds to the feel of faded colonialism and tropical torpor. But for the traveller who wishes to experience something a bit more adventurous, and see what must be one of the natural wonders of Laos, a trip out to Baan Na Hin and from there to Kong Lor Cave is strongly recommended.

Baan Na Hin is situated along Route 8, the road to Vietnam. Surrounded by mountains, it nestles in the valley next to an important hydroelectric station which boasts a golf course - sadly only for employees of the electricity company. You will hardly need this sport to keep you occupied whilst here though - you can take a good walk to waterfalls or climb one of the near vertical limestone monoliths that dot the landscape around the village. The largest waterfall in the district is only some three kilometres from the village, which makes it an ideal lunch trip and swim. It is a bit of a climb too, through some good forest with beautiful, mature trees, some with spectacular buttress roots supporting the giants in the shallow forest soil. Sadly there is not much evidence of bird life or any other fauna - what little is left seems to be very nervous to show itself which is perhaps understandable given the propensity of the local population to put it in the cooking pot. At the guest house I stayed at in the village the pet monkey that was resident - causing endless havoc and fighting with the puppy - was there because its mother had been killed and thus the baby orphaned.

The other option is to go climbing. This is for those who need an adrenalin rush and can't get it from gentle strolls through the jungle. I climbed up the limestone 'rock' nearest the road as you approach the village from Takhek and the view from the top was great. More interesting than the view were the strange, eerie shapes of the water-carved rocks and the other-worldly feel to being on top of one of these peculiar- looking entities. There is something primordial in the sheer bulk but also, given the razor sharp edges the limestone has been formed into and the overpowering feeling that they are reaching for the sky, a vaguely 'Easter Island' type mystique about them. Sitting atop them surrounded by jagged slabs of rock and the odd tree which somehow derives sustenance from this uninviting environment is a powerful experience; as is the treacherous and difficult climb. You should only attempt this with long trousers and a half-way decent pair of trainers. Even then don't expect to come away unbloodied by the lawyer vines, and take care of the rocks which, due to the constant temperature changes, sometimes work themselves loose. Your best friend on the ascent and descent are the roots of the trees that struggle for existence here. Sometimes these stretch metres down almost sheer faces of rock to find some crevice in which to feed. You can't help but feel awed by the phenomenal forces of nature that allow the growth of anything on what appears bare rock.

The cave itself is some 40 kilometres from the village and was until 2007 realistically only approachable by boat. Thanks to a new road which has been completed it is now a fairly easy one-and-a-half-hour drive. The cave can be entered on foot but you will not get very far as the river that runs through it is not a stream but a sizeable flow of water. So sizeable that the whole length is 'boatable' - though you may have to get out and walk occasionally over the dark rapids. You don't need a torch though it can add to your experience as the boatmen who take you in their canoes - with a draft of about two inches - will have beams that give some sense of the scale of this cavernous tunnel. It is truly on a grand scale, a great curved roof extends endlessly in front as you leave the sunlight of the entrance and before you is just the blackness and the sounds of water flowing. There are stalagmites and stalactites to see but for me it was the feeling of boating under a mountain that made the experience unique. I have seen many more beautiful displays of stalactites but never have I sailed into a mountain, leaving all light behind, to emerge the other side. At first the exit is just a glimmer of light in the distance. Then gradually it increases, and shows a portal to the more familiar and reassuring world of day. Sailing back into the darkness after a gentle walk around the landing stage and a drink was a vaguely disquieting experience: was I pushing my luck this time? I had already cheated the underworld once! The end of the cave finally hove into view and once more the gladdening light of day. To enter into the dark of these subterranean depths brings one to think of the nature of light itself - small wonder the sun has been an object of worship for millennia. Go into this cave if you don't understand why.

The relief of exiting the cave can be celebrated by swimming in the clear waters which form an inviting pool. Send the boatmen back to the village and walk back through the woods and take in the beauty of the location. It is unspoilt but may not remain so much longer. Though the road is perhaps a blessing for locals it will change the area for good. What was a very difficult journey will become easy with the consequent increase in tourist numbers. At the moment there is a nice balance but imagine hordes of boats going through the cave. It would quickly lose it charm. The village itself is a typical Laos farming community. What struck me was the easy-going nature of the place and the existence of the people close to the animals. Ducks, pigs, dogs, chickens all wander round the streets, and children too. The river is the bath - for washing bodies and clothes - and toilets are basic holes in the ground with a screen formed of reeds. The menu is sticky rice and eggs with a hot spicy dip. It is a great way to spend a day but not everyone's cup of tea - which was unavailable, as was coffee. Be warned this is not the Hilton and expect some cultural confusion. The price certainly represents value for money though - $5 for dinner, bed and breakfast certainly isn't available in any twee little villages I know in the UK.

A trip to this part of Laos is a great way to spend a few days. The attractions outlined above only give a taste of what is available. I could have spent longer exploring other villages and would love to climb the cliffs above the cave and look down onto the river flowing from the mountain. And oddly, above all, I longed to climb along the jagged pinnacles of the towering curtain of rock that surrounds much of the approach to Kong Lor Cave. I wanted to join the cragged, shrapnel shards in their dogged reach for the sky - like so many doomed ancient fingers reaching for salvation but damned eternally to gravity and the depths.

Motorbikes can be hired in Baan Na Hin from the local tourist office which also organizes other treks in the region.

The villagers themselves organize the boating and the homestays which are well regulated and very reasonably priced. There is a real effort to meet the tourists in some kind of mutually beneficial way. It seems a genuine example of tourism being good for the local people.

Getting to Baan Na Hin is possible by public transport from Takhek but expect it to take most of the day. The roads are good and in places very scenic. Accommodation is available for under ten dollars in the village.

Don't miss the opportunity to visit one of the waterfalls near the village - the trip is a delightful walk.