Chiang Mai (Northern Thailand) Tourist Guide


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Doi Suthep Pui:
Chiang Mai's Defining Mountain

Text : Merin Waite
Photos: Narhuphat & M. Waite

Looking down on Chiang Mai

Whatever you are doing in Chiang Mai - assuming it's outside and during the day - you will constantly be aware of the brooding massif of Doi Suthep in the background. For most people this is all it is - a vaguely beautiful object that is a reassuring presence, but for those who make the effort it has any number of attractions to offer. It's not very high or spectacular to look at, Doi Ithanon and Chang Dao superior in height and splendour respectively. However the ease of access to its charms make it a wonderful asset to the Northern Capital.

I first became aware of the lower slopes when I was attending a meditation course. It wasn't going terribly well and, after hearing a novice of foreign extraction lose the calm, meditative approach to life through being unable to obtain coffee I decided to spend less time in the temple. Through the back gate I was able to slip away on my motorbike and travel to Wat Umong, a far less crowded temple with beautiful, cool underground passages to practice walking meditation. I didn't practice any walking there though. Instead I went to the Wildlife Conservation Area that is set on the slopes of Doi Suthep behind it and observed the semi-wild Bintang cattle and deer. Shortly after this introduction to the lower slopes of the mountain, I decided to leave the kindly abbot who was advising us at the temple and get back into the real world and explore the rest of the mountain.

Into nature

For me that starts at the University of Chiang Mai, because nearby are various introductory features, so to speak - the zoo and the King's project shop - gentle waterfalls where Thais come to picnic whilst dipping their toes in the water, salas by the side of the road and shrines to important historical figures. The first real attraction is Montathan falls and access here is by payment only - though the unscupulous tourist might just slip by above or below the barrier and keep their wallets intact.

The biggest attraction of the mountain of course is Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep itself. A favourite with both Thai and foreign tourists, this temple has a commanding position and stunning views over the city. And apart from the view there is the stupa and its courtyards, with their various and interesting statuary and decorations. The bookshop inside might be informative, since you can pick up a history of the temple there.

Onward and upward and after the temple the traffic lightens and the road narrows. Soon you reach Bhubing Palace, the royal residence of the king of Thailand in the winter. Due to its elevation plants not normally associated with Thailand grow here in abundance including roses. It is an absolutely charming spot and the very moderate entrance fee is well worth it. The only slightly unnerving aspect is the piped music which competes with the bird song. Despite the noise, though, the palace is an enchanting place and not to be missed.

It is best to dine at one of the roadside restaurants here for from now on nothing is available except coffee and possibly something at the National Park Headquarters.

Hmong fabrics

If you wish to find a place where you can really meditate stop at the ancient stupa situated a few kilometers before the path to the summit of Doi Pui. I rested there and found it had a truly soothing atmosphere. Leaving here, there is only a short ride to the very well maintained and informative camping ground of Doi Pui. Extremely courteous park officials have set up a great display in English and Thai and there are tents available for those who wish to stay. From the camp ground to the top of the mountain it is a brisk twenty-minute walk and it is well worth it, as much for the view but also for the soft carpet of pine needles and the aroma of pinewood. At this height pines predominate and in the cool air, bird calls make it a world away from the city's smog and noise.

The last stop is the coffee plantation and the Hmong village of Doi Pui. Originally much opium was grown in the north of Thailand and coffee is one of the alternative crops encouraged by the government. The setting is absolutely gorgeous with shades of green stretching out, a cool balcony to sit on, freshly-brewed coffee and running water. It is also possible to stay up here for about six hundred baht a night.

Workmanship

Beyond the village you are on your own. Paths multiply, villages come out of nowhere, ridge upon ridge of massive trees cause the eye to veer from the road, and occasionally you come across settlements of a semi-government nature-some research station or flower-growing project. Up in these almost timeless settings you may be inclined to think the spirit of King Mengrai's capital lies not in the city pillar but the great mountain which looks over the tiny human endeavours far, far beneath it.