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BACKPACKING IN VIENTIANE

The capital city of the People’s Democratic Republic of Laos or The Lao PDR, Vientiane, is likely the sleepiest of international capitals: there’s no feeling of hectic metropolitan life. This very simplicity should appeal to the backpacker who ventures into this landlocked, little known country. And Vientiane does have its charms: there are stunning manmade constructions and the atmosphere is laid back.

The city, at first sight, is not a likely backpacker destination: the old and magnificent temples at Luang Prabang or tube riding and chilling out at Vang Vien likely come to mind. Vientiane is a pleasant place to relax, to chat with local people, students, and other backpackers, have a lake-river fish dinner, and take in a glorious sunset on the Mekong.

Accomodation tends to be more expensive than other places in Laos. The average price for a shared bathroom and room with fan should be about 150 baht ($4USD), but air con could easily make this rise to 300-400 ($8-10USD). Bargaining is a definite must in this case.

The “Morning Market,” open in fact much of the day, is an enjoyable place to observe Laotian commerce. The haggling over unfamiliar vegetables and animals is intense and souvenir stalls line the aisles along with everyday items of clothing and modcons. A 7.30 a.m. the market is already crowded and bustling. If your accommodation doesn’t include breakfast, you might want to have French bread (baguette) with coffee or a Laotian-style omelette at one of the many food stalls. You can also change money at the market, and the exchange rate is said to be the best in town.

Just walking around town is one of the highlights: temples and old colonial villas are a “must see.” Wat Simuang is a legendary site. A young lady who was disappointed in love committed suicide by jumping into the pond behind the main villa next to the pagoda. Laotians believe that offering a yellow flower, a candle, and incense will make their wishes come true. The magnificent Wat Prah Keaw is the former royal temple. There are no monks there now, and the Pra Kaew (The Emerald Buddha) that used to be there is now in Wat Prah Kaew next to the Grand Palace in Bangkok, taken there after Thailand’s victory over Vientiane in 1827-28.

Wat Sri Saket is also worth checking out. It is believed that this temple is the oldest, built in 1818. At this temple small niches contain over 2,000 silver and ceramic Buddha images. Its flowered ceiling is a breathtaking vision but be careful not to take photos. A long strip of exposed film makes the point.

Carefully planning your itinerary will help you make the most of your visit since Laos closes down for lunch between noon and 1.30 pm. Visa extensions or new visas for Thailand make the city a popular destination for farang in Thailand. Rumours before my arrival said that the cheapest internet rates were here, but the connections were so slow that you’ll unlikely be online very long. ATM machines don’t exist, and tourists need to change money the old way by waiting in a bank.

Patuxai (Victory Monument) is one of the town’s highlights. This symbol of the end of French colonial rule is walkable and deserves to be seen. You also can climb up to the top to have a great view of the city and the surrounding countryside.

The last “must see” destination is Pha That Luang about 15 minutes by tuk tuk from the city center. This golden pagoda will strike you with its astonishing design and color. Myth has it that Viantiane was built by a Naga (a serpent deity) who protected the town and lived under the pagoda. The enemy tricked the ruler into coming out and closed the entrance to the Naga, which made the city face disaster. Laotians believe that they were conquered in 1574 by Burma, and in 1779 and 1827 by Thailand because they fought without the Naga’s help. The pagoda, deserted, was taken over and rebuilt by the French in a Western style, which upset local people immensely. After the end of colonial rule it was decided to renovate the pagoda in the Laotian style now seen.

Talking with students is an interesting activity. They love practicing English with foreigners, and it is a good way to ask for travel tips. There are discotheques and clubs in the first-class hotels, but a backpacker is more likely to catch the nightly movie in a restaurant. These venues can be packed with backpackers who want to see movies, have dinner, chat with others or just watch time go by. The screen is large, the sound system not bad, and having people watching with you is fun.

If you don’t mind a bit of adventure, don’t need too many Western comforts, are on a budget, and footloose and fancy free, Vientiene can provide relaxation after an exhausting journey upcountry, but it also makes a very pleasant destination in itself. Have a good time--and please don’t rush, perhaps the real meaning of the Lao PDR!

Text and images 2004 © Chatwut Wangwon
The writer is a lecturer in the Communications Department at Maejo University. He can be reached at realnoi@yahoo.com