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Wat Chet Yod -
One of its culturally significant features

One of the most architecturally interesting and historically important of Chiang Mai's temples is Wat Chet Yot -The Temple of the Seven Spires. Located just one kilometre out of town from the Amari Rincome Hotel, on the Superhighway, it was built in the 15th Century by King Tilokarat, at a time when Chiang Mai was perhaps the most important centre of Buddhist learning and practice in Southeast Asia. Having agreed that his capital city should host a Buddist World conference to reconsider and correct the Tripitaka texts, Tilokarat also thought it appropriate that a temple should be built to mark the occasion, and thus Wat Chet Yot came into being.

One of the interesting features of the temple is the so-called khong (arch) which is to be seen on the left side next to the small road by the temple.

Just like the other Buddhist temples, Wat Jed Yod features a khong (arch) which is the gate to the northern monastic compound with a semicircular archway. Among the Khong arches in Chiang Mai, this one at Wat Jed Yod is regarded as the oldest. But how is such an arch interesting and worthy of study? A religious connection of course. The stucco decorations covering the arch represents the highest goal one desires to reach, according to the Buddhist perspective - "the state of enlightenment." It clearly depicts the earth on the lowest part with the picture at the foot of Mount Meru or Sumeru, which represents the state of enlightenment in Buddhist mythology. On the foothills, in the Himmapan Forest, there's a collection of mythical creatures including singha (a chimerical lion), a naga or serpent, and a kinnara (half-human and half-bird creature), a swan and phaya luang (a Lanna dragon). Near the top is the depiction of heaven with well-known deities like Shiva, and at the top of the arch is a 5-fold parasol, representing the five
Buddhas, both real and mythical.

Apart from symbolizing the faith people have in respect of religion, the khong arch at Wat Jed Yod is also evidence showing that Chiang Mai during Phaya Tilokarat's reign was extremely artistically and architecturally advanced. The arch, which stands in front of the temple, is structurally massive. The base is made from bricks and lime while both sides of the arch are uprights with ancient-style decoration. Its top was decorated with Lanna accessories. Unfortunately, these accessories no longer exist as they fell victim to climate and neglect.

To clarify the connection between Thai stucco works and Buddhism, this kind of sculpture has been employed for millennia and is almost entirely found in religious architecture such as pagoda, vihara and murals. Thai stucco comes in two categories according to style - Lanna and Central Thai, each with different characteristics and backgrounds. If we look at the Lanna version, we find that the original method of preparing the lime is devoted to making the work resistant to humidity. Again, as the lime contains no salts, it is not easily damaged by weathering.

There are two ways to prepare the lime. The first is called the ancient method. The lime is mixed with sand and left for a year before being exposed to sunlight, crushed into powder and then mixed with simmered sugar cane juice, buffalo skin-made glue, bark, rice straw and ripe bananas. After mixing, all ingredients are crushed until sticky enough to be molded into various shapes. The second preparation method shows the influence of Chinese art. The lime is mixed with crushed bricks, sand, castor or sesame oil before being crushed until sticky. It is usually used with rak resin whose appearance looks like phenolic resin.

Lanna stucco is always laid onto a flat smooth surface like the base and up-front part of a pagoda. Each work varies in style and technique depending on the artists' skill and talent. What obviously distinguishes Lanna stucco from the others is the lai karb, the triangle pattern decorated in the corners and pillars of the temple building. Normally, it is used to create floral shapes and comes in three catagories; lai karb bon, lai karb lang and lai karb pracham yamok.

Unfortunately, the beauty of this cultural heritage at Wat Jed Yod was ruined in 1965 when the super highway was constructed next to the temple. Around 12 acres of the total area became parts of the highway, destroying the cultural unity of the structure that Phaya Tilokarat had originally made. The area by the highway has become the new entrance to the temple and the khong arch which marks the right entrance was then hidden in a corner. What was worse is that the highway has cut off Chedi Khukaew, one of the pagodas from the temple area. It's now situated in the highway office area. As the Buddha teaches us - nothing in this world has permanence.

Getting there: Wat Jed Yod is located on Super Highway, just across Rincome Intersection.