Chiang Mai (Northern Thailand) Tourist Guide


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LIVING IT UP:
River Ping Palace
"From noble home to relaxing resort"

Text: Finley B. Luge
Photos: Karin

Just relax!

Chiang Mai enjoys the distinction of being the capital of the North, as it was historically the capital of Lanna Thai. The city, as we know it today, has come about after over 700 years of change and development, and fundamental to its current appearance is the Mae Ping River. Flowing through the heart of Chiang Mai city, it is apparent how the city grew and was nurtured beside it, and today buildings both modern and historically-important stand side by side along its banks. Whilst driving south down the Charoen Prathet Road, this blend of old and new is evident, with homes obviously erected in a by-gone era nestling amongst contemporary apartment blocks.

A short distance along this road our chosen destination for this month was upon us. Built circa 1880, The River Ping Palace is a perfect example of an old-fashioned abode, from the gravelled courtyard, to the magnificent teak wood house and the lush tropical gardens around it. Meandering through the garden, we arrived at the outdoor restaurant that is beautifully set a stone's throw from the river. Here we met Garn, who takes care of the hotel and its guests, and who provided us with a lively history of the place.

"This was once home to a noble Chiang Mai family and six years ago it was adapted to become a boutique hotel. The style of the main building is a combination of Lanna and Chinese, and we have worked very hard at trying to preserve it in its original design as much as possible."

Teak-wood interior

The restaurant that overlooks the serene Ping River was built as an extension to the main living quarters, yet it remains very much in keeping with the design of the house. Given the ample seating, there is no problem about catering for guests who simply drop by to sample some of the fine cuisine on offer each day after 6pm. Thai food is at the menu's core, and the steamed pork is the chef's signature dish. Yet a speciality of the kitchen happens to be a Chinese salabau - a kind of delicately-flavoured white bread bun, popularly eaten as an afternoon or mid-morning snack.

After our chat with Garn, we were led away to view the eight rooms that are set on two floors. Upstairs are four deluxe rooms and one suite. Downstairs the three balcony rooms are currently being renovated and should be completed by the middle of the year.

And it's making your way upstairs that you become aware how almost everything is made from teak wood, which is probably why the house has managed to stand so proudly for more than a century. The walls are adorned with beautiful works of art and personal photographs that the original owners thankfully decided to leave in the house when they left.

Romantic comfort

The rooms have each been uniquely decorated and are spotlessly clean. The beds are all four-posters and the various furnishings include antique vanity tables and mirrors, along with handsome wardrobes. Modern appliances include air conditioning units and WiFi internet access, allowing for contemporary conveniences in an old-fashioned environment. I asked Garn what type of guests have stayed here and was informed that the River Ping Palace has, since its inception, lodged dozens of families, honeymooners and travellers of all ages.

"When people arrive here they often comment on how nice it is to stay in what was obviously someone's home. There's a real cosy ambience that makes guests happy to spend time relaxing around the place. One of the particularly favoured spots is in the part of the garden overlooking the river."

This last comment is thoroughly understandable. At the epicentre of the resort is a magnificent tree that the original owners must have decided to build their home around, the Thai Dala. Its large red flowers and narrow spreading branches pepper the area around the base of the trunk, and a small vegetable patch can be seen from the walkway. Amongst all the opulent greenery, giant lanterns hang high from thick branches above, ready to light up this wonderful area at nightfall. The garden leads onto the back of the compound where a small sanctuary has been created for guests to relax in. Swing chairs and a seating area converted from a small cart nestle amongst the lush surrounds and provide the perfect locus for the picturesque view of the Ping River nearby. From this idyllic spot a back staircase leads to the rooms, while only a few feet away is the restaurant.

For those looking for a place to unwind, read a book and use up as little energy as possible, this is certainly a place to consider. Chiang Mai has a lot of accommodation to offer tourists, but the River Ping Palace is one of the more unique places around.