Chiang Mai (Northern Thailand) Tourist Guide


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THE GYMKHANA CLUB
In the Shade of the Big Tree

by Graeme Monaghan

Almost everybody understands that this area of Northern Thailand is rich in cultural history. Immaculate records have been made to keep track of the many kings, monks, and high officials who have walked their pathways through life in this region. However, comparatively little is generally known of the pioneer Westerners who came here in the mid to late nineteenth century, mainly for the rich pickings of teak timber. Towards the end of that century a few of them decided amongst themselves to do something about obtaining some recreational facilities and the chance to get together for a drink and a talk. Although they probably did not realise it at the time, they too were creating history.

So, on a warm April evening in 1896 twelve men sat down to discuss the formation of a sports club in Chiang Mai. The consequence of that long ago meeting is still with us today, and resulted in the formation of the Chiengmai Gymkhana Club, and it remains the oldest club of its kind in all of Thailand. On the east side of the Ping River, land was purchased by the twelve, plus two others, and later donated by Deed of Gift to the club itself so that in a remarkably short space of time it was operative. In the intervening century plus, it has been, and remains, so steeped in history that, today, we can almost walk directly into some of those times gone by. As we enter the portals of the Chiengmai Gymkhana Club we can almost feel the presence of the ghosts whose dream of more than a century ago is the present reality. The interior of the club itself holds a wealth of old photographs and trophies for the interested viewer. The name �Gymkhana�, although its origin is a little cloaked in mystery, was taken by the British from India, and relates to competition for horse riders. Indeed, that was the principal purpose of the founders, although cricket, athletics, tennis, and Bumble Puppy were included in the list of activities. Whatever Bumble Puppy was remains unknown to this writer at the time of writing.

In front of, and to the left, of the clubrooms stands a monument with a brass plaque listing the names of the original founders. The most famous of these is Louis T. Leonowens, whose mother, Anna, was the lady of Anna and the King of Siam fame. He was evidently as colourful a character as his mother, with whom he came to Siam in 1862 aged about seven. He was a childhood friend of King Chulalongkorn (Rama V), and at one time was engaged in an attack by the Shan people upon Lampang. With the aid of a Captain Jensen he successfully organised the defence of that city. He had an assortment of jobs in America and Australia then returned to Siam and set up the L. T. Leonowens Company. He eventually died in England in 1919 and is buried in London.

Apparently, he was rather an irascible character and one founding member, Mr. J. Harper, resigned because he found Leonowens �difficult�.

Louis T. Leonowens

From that original April meeting, a committee meeting was held on 5th September and it were resolved that a Skye-meeting be held at the end of October. Things then moved along at a brisk pace insofar as the preparing of land and setting up of the club facilities were concerned so that a two-day race meeting, plus other sports, was held over Christmas 1898. The following Christmas saw a highly organized race meeting with nine events. The races included some rather quaint sounding titles such as The Hurdle Race, The European Scurry, The Borneo Cup, The Pagoda Stakes, The Burmah Cup, and The Midget Stakes. Although whether the last mentioned referred to the jockeys or the horses in unclear.

Although Phya Song Suradej was among the founding members, the club was intended almost exclusively for Europeans, and Foundation Rule IV expressly stated that �the Club shall be vested in a Committee of five Europeans�. Among these were to be the British Consul, a member of the Bombay Burmah Trading Corporation, one a member of the Borneo Company Limited, and one a member of the Forest Department. These four were to elect a fifth member of their choosing. All very democratic.

Needless to say that these days, those terms no longer apply and the club is run and attended mainly by Thai people, and rightly so.

In the intervening century plus, the club has enjoyed the visits of many great and famous personalities. In 1905 a visit was made by King Chulalongkorn the Great, which put the stamp of royal patronage on the place as well as the ensuing prominence.

British writer, W. Somerset Maugham, also called in while he was touring through the Chiang Mai district in the 1920s.

In the late 1980s the committee permitted the use of the ground for the Chiang Mai International Cricket Sixes tournament, and many of the world�s most famous cricketers have played there from time to time. The event has now become one of the world�s major events of its kind.

No story of the Gymkhana Club could be told without mention of the magnificent tree that stands in front of the clubrooms. When the club was established this tree was mentioned then as �the old tree�, and that was more than 100 years ago. So large are some of the lower branches that they must be propped up by strong poles to prevent them from breaking off. Some seven or eight years ago I stepped out the width of the tree by walking its shadow, and it was then at least 70 metres across. No one seems quite sure as to what kind of tree it is (although it is sometimes referred to as the �rain tree�) so, suffice to say, it is a most beautiful creation of nature around which the club was born.

Although horseracing is no more, there are excellent facilities for golf, tennis, squash, and cricket. The Gymkhana Club is well worth a visit and provides a chance to take a step back into a different kind of Thai history.