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S.P. Publishing Group Co., Ltd.
11/1 Soi 3 Bamrungburi Rd., T. Prasingh,
A. Muang., Chiang Mai 50200
Tel. 053 - 814 455-6 Fax. 053 - 814 457
E-mail: guidelin@loxinfo.co.th
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A trip full of tour guides
Text: Anne, Terryl Photos: Anne
Let me
introduce myself. My name is Anne. I started the tour
guide training course authorized by the Tourism Authority of
Thailand a few months ago at Chiang Mai University, and am
on my way to gaining an official license to be your guide
anywhere in Thailand.
Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep
I believe you all know what a tour guide is, isn't that right?
It's always fun to have one accompanying you on your trip, with
their exotic charm, good humour, wittiness, impeccably reliable
information. And so on. There with you not just to amuse and instruct
you but also discourage you from making those
faux pas that are liable to dog the most well-intending visitor. So as well as showing
you round, stopping you getting lost, we guides also lead you here
and there, providing reliable historical and social back-up, and
making sure you're introduced into only the best of shops and
restaurants in and out of town.
Well, as learner-guides, eager to get into the real thing
ourselves, we find it's not all fun. Our studies involve quite a lot of
late afternoon lectures (napping included), and those real visits to
historical sites, which are naturally more entertaining. These trips
are also thrilling, us students often required to take practical tests: like
giving info about places in English in front of class-mates
pretending to be naive tourists who have lots of really silly questions.
Here's an interesting example of the latter.
"Who are all those guys wearing yellow robes?" To this,
one of us trainees (not me, I swear it) answered, "Oh... they are
just monks living in the temple."
Wat Suan Dok
"What about those kids who are wearing the same
yellow clothes?"
"Them? Um...they are the monks' sons."
Actually, what happened here was a small but fairly
common breakdown in communications. This guide wannabe couldn't
explain or didn't know the word "novice". In real life, if he or she
ever passes the final exam, you'll go back home with a somewhat
cock-eyed impression of Chiang Mai, and are likely to communicate it
to your friends as the real thing. Like, "Oh my dear, monks in
Thailand - they have lots of kids who live in the same sanctuary with
them." This is the kind of problem that arises when you encounter
an unqualified tour guide.
No-one wants that to happen, and thus the intensive
training I've been talking about here includes not only the major and
most obvious cultural points, but a lot of extremely arcane ones. I
mean, do you want me to give you the business on the architecture
of everything from the design of the Grand Palace down in Bangkok
to the significance of the intricate stucco work you can see in
some minor Chiang Mai temple? I can do it. You wanna lecture on
the difference between an apse and an architrave. I can give you
one. (Just give me a little bit of a warning, and so long as I've got
my detailed notes with me. Now, where did I put them?) I mean,
we're talking here about someone whose gone through three months -
90 days - of indoctrination, and not forgetting all those trips that
almost drove us crazy.
Wat Chedi Liam
My last one - training trip, I mean - was here in Chiang Mai,
in which we tried to visit nine temples in one day. (At least, it
should have been nine - khau in Thai, which means progress and is
therefore doubly meritorious. I suspect one or two might have dropped
off the list as we went along, because we were in a bit of a hurry to
get through with it. Understandably, because although the forecast
was for a sunny day and lotsa blue sky, it didn't quite turn out that way.)
First off was Wat Chedi Liam or Wat Gu Kam in Wieng
Kum Kam, Chiang Mai's old city. My teacher was giving us the info in
a rapid fire-speech for fear that we couldn't make it to nine temples in
a day. What we students had to do was take it all in, and at the
same time do multi-tasking - writing stuff down, taking photos,
making sketches and the like. And the 'everything' that was being thrown
at us included the first few years of the foundation of the Lanna
Kingdom until the conqueror king - what's his name? Mengrai, no?
- relocated the city away from what turned out to be a seriously
flood-prone plain.
So there we were and suddenly - Ka-boom! Rain was
pouring down. Eighty people were high-tailing it back to our
bus-transport, looking like drowning rats. It seems clear to me now that
weather forecasting is useless in Thailand. So, a word of advice from
your guide. Do remember at all times during the rainy season to
carry your umbrella with you - whatever the weather forecasters tell you.
At the second temple we regrouped, and our morale really
wasn't that bad at all. We shook the rain out of our notebooks, squeezed
our sleeves and got back to work just as if we'd been born to it. The sun
was shining again, a cool breeze was blowing, the sky was blue once more.
Who cares if we were wet through and shivering?
Lai Kam Chapel, Wat Prasingh
Actually, if you'd asked us,
we'd have told you walking around half-drowned was
fun.
That was it, in minature - from 7.30 am. until 7.30 pm, twelve
hours of temples, soaking wet from the rain and burnt bloody from the
sun...Wat Chedi Liam, Wat Suan Dok (formerly Wat Bupparam), Doi Suthep, Wat
Jet Yod (the most beautiful temple in Chiang Mai), Wat Chedi Luang,
Wat Chiang Man, and the popular Wat Prasingh. Er, how many was
that, exactly?
Anyway, it was all educational. Apart from the historical
particulars of Chiang Mai and the fact that it regularly rains at
irregular intervals in the rainy season, there were many things that we
guide students learned. For an example, we were at Chiang Man
Temple, and nearly had a fight with the local drivers over there. It was
because we had to practice before our oral exam and the good way
to do that was to explain the Wat to friends and tourists that passed
by. It turned out that some of those local drivers had valid guide
licenses and they were just a little bit bothered by us. Their thinking was
they could have profitted from these tourists or even sold them some
tour programs. So some of the tougher guys thought that beating us
up would partly compensate for the losses we caused them.
Luckily, someone in our group was able to reason with them.
Pratu Kong Laikam Chapel
As our studies, or to be more precise, our speaking out loud
in half-broken English, attracted quite a number of tourists who
wanted to get free lessons, it was a little unfortunate for them to listen and
get quite unbelievable stories. One of us said the mural paintings in
the Lai Kham Chapel represented the story of Ramayana, an epic
from India, when in fact it was to do with the Suwanna Hong. Anyway,
the story they told didn't fit the pictures, whatever they were.
Also, one of us joked that, King Khamfu, the father of
King Phayu who built Wat Phrasingh, died because he swam in a
crocodile pool in one of the temples. Anyone with only a half a brain
should understand that no one in their right mind would have
desported himself in such a fatal and improper activity.
In fact the king was devoured by crocodiles swimming in
a river in Phayao. And yes, a few hundred years ago crocodiles
were plentiful in our waters. Even in the Chiang Mai city moat, it is
assumed that they were put in there to keep the enemies from
easily crossing it. Lucky we don't have any now. Just piranhas. (OK,
that's just a joke. Don't get excited. And don't go spreading
misleading stories when you get back home. Remember, like everyone else,
we tourist guides like to lighten up once in a while).
Wind bells
There are yet more incidents that, if known to you
foreigners, tour guides might not have any job to do. So, I have to be
discrete about certain things.
Anyway, after three months of studying, I will be
a tour guide soon. So if you see a talkative, chubby,
friendly Thai woman surrounded by tourists... that'll probably
be me.
Text: Anne, Terryl Photos: Anne
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