Chiang Mai (Northern Thailand) Tourist Guide


	S.P. Publishing Group Co., Ltd. 11/1 Soi 3 Bamrungburi Rd., T. Prasingh, A. Muang., Chiang Mai 50200 Tel. 053 - 814 455-6 Fax. 053 - 814 457 E-mail: guidelin@loxinfo.co.th

Five Fantastic Days in Chiang Mai
� You Begin Here

Text: J.M. Cadet
Images: SP

You begin here because as far as I can see, after five meagre days, you'll just want to keep on going.

I should know. I came here - er, how many years ago was it? Basically, I was dropping by on my way from Europe to fame and fortune in Oz's proletarian paradise…As I say, just dropping by, but here I am still, gawping!

Well, I won't claim you've put yourself in good hands by taking me as your guide, but you can bet yer life, I now know what I'm talking about, Chiang Mai-wise.

But let's begin.

Silverware

DAY ONE

I'd suggest that you get under way with a wai (salute) to the founding-father of Chiang Mai, Jao (prince) Mengrai, up on his plinth at the very centre of the old city, Three Kings Square. The two other monarchs with him were princes from Sukhothai and Phayao respectively, and it was partly from the military-social springboard their collaboration created that modern Thailand has come into being.

Now, if you go just five hundred metres approx. south, to the junction of the Rajadamnern and Phrapokklao Roads, you'll come to the neat little memorial terrace at which Mengrai is more traditionally honoured. There's a small chedi there, festooned with flowers, some rather handsome reliefs on the wall commemorating Mengrai's triumphs, an earth shrine to one of the aboriginal female spirits (yes, you'd better give her a wai too, to be on the safe side) and a municipality tablet (in English), telling us that Mengrai died in something like his 72nd year as a result of being struck by lightning, right at the very centre of his kingdom. There's a very curious story at the back of this, but I'm afraid I have to hold out on you, because there just isn't space for it here.

In any case, here we are, 11 o'clock of a cloudless day (this being the dry cool season), and we should be scuttling along to our next important venue.

Which has to be Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep, up on its forested eminence to the west of town.

Now if you really want to make merit (thambun), you'll eschew the various other means of transport like the writer (occasionally) does, and turn to Shanks's Pony, i.e. hoofing it up the pilgrim path that runs from close to the Channel Seven TV Station, past the lovely little temple of Wat Pah Lat, across the Srivichai Road, and into the temple through its kuti area (monks' cells) - an hour and half of steep upward progress if you're in reasonable nick.

Naga Stairway

On the other hand, you might decide to be sensible and avail yourself of the excellent shared taxi service (rot songtaw) that runs up the Srivichai Road from the entrance of Chiang Mai University main entrance, to Suthep Village. You've still got the 200 plus steps up the naga stairway to make your merit on - unless you opt out by taking the cable railway that final steep section: right into the temple itself.

Having got to Wat Phrathat, what do you do? First, enjoy the magnificent view out over Chiang Mai from the elegantly-tiled lower courtyard, then admire the many images, from the White Elephant through Khruba Srivichai - plastered over with gold leaf - to Hermit Suthep, the temple's legendary founder, and various tewadas (celestial beings: including elephant-headed Phra Pikanet…now what's he doing here?). Next you go up to the inner courtyard, and circumambulate the superb white chedi containing the Buddha relic. That's your duty done, since all visitors to Chiang Mai - and the Thai tourists don't require to be told this - need to pay their respects here to the founder of the Buddhist religion, and perhaps bong a few of the temple's melodious bells before leaving.

You might now take a look at the jewelry and miscellaneous gee-gaws on sale in Ban Suthep, just outside the temple. On the other hand, time pressing, you might prefer to taxi back down the mountain, snatch a quick bowl of noodles, and then trip over to the Silverware 'Village' in the Wualai district just outside the Chiang Mai Gate on the south side of the walled city. The craftsmanship, especially of the silver ceremonial bowls with their detailed workings of mythological and religious themes, is exquisite, and prices are very reasonable - particularly if you bargain politely.

Three Kings Monument

Amazing how quickly time passes - dusk already. So leaving the clink of the craftsmen's hammers behind you, you hunt up a meal worthy of your first evening in the city - but how to choose when so much is on offer? Chinese, Thai, Muslim, Western. Well, why not slink around the Night Bazaar area, in the heart of town - let your nose be your guide. And if it's quietness that's attractive after the hard day you've had, can you do better than the restaurant of the Yang Come Village on the Sridonchai Road?

And why not wind down afterwards, at somewhere on the east bank of the Ping River, from which you see the lights of Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep sparkling in the night sky? The choice here is amazingly varied too, but you can't go wrong if you wind up at the Riverside Bar, the Brasserie or the Huan Soontaree - or some of the others on this bank of the river. Hit them at the right time, and there'll be live music to make the evening memorable.

And so to bed - but with DAYS TWO TO FIVE to follow (I told you, you begin here). A visit to the Mae Sa Valley on day two- waterfalls, snakes, butterflies and elephants among the tourist attractions - up to the top of the highest mountain in Thailand, Doi Inthanon on day three - north to Mae Sai and across the border into Burma on day four perhaps - and certainly a closer examination of Chiang Mai city and its culture on the final day? And you still won't have more than touched all there is to see and do here.