Chiang Mai (Northern Thailand) Tourist Guide


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FANCY A MAGICAL SPELL BY THE SEA?
Try the Warm Waves of Koh Payam

Text & Photos: Matt Yoxall

Comfortably slumped against the soft varnished boards that stretched along the front of my bungalow, listening to the sea gently stroking the shore line, I could hardly believe that a few days earlier I had actually questioned whether to head south at all…

The last 18 months had been long and I was feeling fairly worn out (and perhaps a little sorry for myself?). I'd been working in the series of refugee camps that mark the Thai Burma border on the somewhat contentious 'Refugee Resettlement Program', currently being administered there. Somewhere along the way I'd booked an Air Asia promotion to Ranong; a small and very typical Southern Thai town set on the edge of the Andaman Sea. (An absolute bargain deal too might I add, at just 2,500 baht return, Chiang Mai to Ranong via Bangkok).

And now, having left my job and with just a few pennies left in my purse, a non-refundable, non-date changeable air ticket had made its way out of the drawer where it had been stashed a few months earlier and was quite audibly shouting at me: "Well, are you going to use me or what?"

Arriving at Bangkok's ultra modern Suvarnabhumi Airport, I sauntered around, took some black and white photos, and started to kick back. Thank heavens I'd packed a bag and got myself onto the plane. I mean, when is taking a holiday ever a bad idea; especially when you really need one? I came across a swanky Tony and Guy hair salon at the end of a shimmering steel walkway. With an hour to kill, I got myself a sharp new 'do' along with a complimentary head, neck and shoulder massage. Ahhhh, that's better! I could feel the holiday vibes beginning to surface.

I arrived in Ranong mid-afternoon (a taxi from the airport takes around 20 mins and is normally 200 baht per person). I'd randomly decided to visit one of the lesser known Thai islands; Koh Payam. The 90-minute boat ride out of Ranong was in the morning, so I spent the night in town. After checking into a guesthouse (Suta House Bungalow - clean and not bad for 300 baht), I went out to explore. I'd been to Ranong some years back on a 'visa run', and at its heart it hadn't changed much at all. Still the affable little place I remembered with its two main streets and local produce market. The evening sweetly slipped into darkness while I was at the night market; polishing off a double helping of khaaw neaw ma muang (mango and sticky rice).

The boat set off at 9 am so I got myself down to Saphaan Plaa (Fish Bridge) pier in good time. (The motorbike taxi ride cost 50 baht and took around 10 minutes). At the pier I waited with the other passengers; a mixture of islanders, monks and tourists. I watched local fishermen unload giant palm fronds from a large truck; the kind used for making traditional roofing.

On the boat I chatted to Hardy, a seasoned visitor to Thailand and Koh Payam also. He recommended PP Land as a place to stay; "Probably the only place open all year round, with 24hr 'solar powered' electricity, too," he informed me. Sounded promising and eco-friendly, but as the island was fairly small, I decided to rent a motorbike first and check out where might be good. A rental place just near the jetty quickly handed over the keys to a bright red Honda Wave, and I was off.

Shortly after I set out I met a stranded teenager whose own bike had run out of gas. His name was Nong Cam and I offered him a lift; synchronicity had it that he worked at PP Land.

Set a couple of hundred metres off the road down a sandy path I quickly worked out that I'd found what I was looking for. The easy green bungalows with their ample verandas, sun-dried grass roofs, and clean and comfortable beds were exactly what I was looking for. The contemporary styled bathrooms that open onto the sky and give you a view of coconuts by day, and the stars at night, were an added bonus. With its own private beach to boot, I was quick to get settled in.

Koh Payam and the surrounding islands are in very close proximity to Burma. In fact, as you head out on the boat you pass close by a number of islets, and it's impossible to know what belongs to who; where does Thailand end and Burma begin exactly? This feeling is somewhat repeated once you step onto the island as there are a number of Burmese migrants there, working for the Thai-owned businesses; cashew nut, rubber and prawn farming mainly, along with a scattering of tourist bungalows. As I rode out along one of Koh Payam's simple single track roads I received a number of warm Burmese smiles, punctuated by signature deep-red betel-nut-stained teeth. A young woman passed by with a heavy bag of clean laundry atop her head. She looked at me shyly and then genuinely asked; "Happy?"

Groves of gnarled cashew nut trees seem to cover the centre of the island, with concrete tracks giving way to dirt at times, and eventually white sand. I carefully drew onto the edge of the aptly named Ao Yai. A half mile of wide uninterrupted beach spread out to either side of me. Being late October it was technically still the low-season and pretty much deserted. I had the place to myself, save the occasional knocking of a hammer against bamboo. After what had just happened with the world economic markets, would the tourists be coming back again this year? The thought soon drifted away as I enjoyed one of the most stunning and graphic sunsets I'd experienced in years. I asked myself; happy? Happy? Happy….!

I spent the rest of the week wandering the island finding my favorite spots to swim, sun bathe and snorkel; met a cool guy called Jimmy from the Hippy Bar; read three books; loved my hammock; slept a lot, and generally put the world to rights during languid evenings spent in the PP Land restaurant with a German garment trader from China, a Dutch philosopher from Amsterdam, and Paul; one of the P's from PP Land (the other being his wife, Pearl). Paul is currently trying to harness the power of the wind to support his solar energy system. His organic farm plot should follow shortly.

All in all, Koh Payam is very friendly and unspoiled compared to some of the other Thai islands. It's a small unfussy place and everything is really no more than 15 mins away by moped. It's also very easy to arrange a boat trip for yourself. But if you come here expecting the high life and party thrills, then you may well leave disappointed. On the other hand, if you come expecting little and seeking genuine rest and relaxation; then you'll no doubt leave as I did; hugely rewarded!

This is 'the islands' as they once were, and it will not be my last visit…

(Accommodation prices on Koh Payam vary based on the season, just like the rest of Thailand - 150-300 baht in the low season and rising to 400-800 between November and March/April. You can book ahead at PP Land by calling 0816784310 or go to www.ppland.cabanova.de)