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A WALK ON THE WILD SIDE:
Chiang Mai's Sunday Market is a Trip to Remember

According to historical accounts, walking wasn't always just a form of recreation - it used to be the only way to get around town. Yet for many of us today walking is a last resort, performed only when the car runs out of petrol or the bike has a flat.

It's a shame, really, as there's nothing more salutary than stretching one's legs and strolling around a lively and charming neighbourhood. This is a fact not lost on the citizens of Chiang Mai. To help protect the quaint village-like atmosphere of the city, the government four years ago initiated a weekly `walking street', in which traffic is blocked off on two main thoroughfares on Sunday so an exuberant open air market can be thrown. On these days the pace of everyone's life slows down to a leisurely shuffle, local artists display tokens of their genius, and a fortune is exchanged not only in products, but in smiles and friendly greetings as well. At least 50,000 visitors show up each Sunday and spend 40 million baht in just a few hours. Surely its rapid success is no accident. The Chiang Mai Walking Street is one of the most pleasant and unusual shopping experiences in all of Asia.

One might say that the Walking Street is equal parts bazaar and bizarre: cobbled avenues and impromptu music acts bring to mind a lively Mediterranean promenade, while the exotic items on display belie an unlikely mix of contemporary art, modern kitsch and local tribal handiwork. Chiang Mai not only boasts an inordinate supply of creative young artists, but is also close to many hill tribe villages and their established artistic traditions. Intermingling the two aesthetic currents, it's not unusual to see hip designer handbags on sale fashioned from old hill tribe weavings, or a young Akha girl in full costume dancing a la Britney Spears to Thai pop music in exchange for tips. There's something for everybody at the Walking Street, even if, admittedly, some of those things are not for everybody.

Street Scenes, Market Dynamics

One of the most eye-catching stalls is the one that sells clothing for dogs. Today, however, the poodle who normally shows off his owner's fashion line is not in costume. He is being fanned by her instead, panting heavily on his side. "Too hot" the owner says, conceding that while clothes might look adorable on dogs, they are often unsuitable for the tropics. Nevertheless, when the evening cools down the posh pup can be seen once again sporting his little cowboy hat and playboy necktie, dapper as a dog can be. Nearby, a smiling woman sells `Zombie Dolls' of her own creation. They are sort of cute in their own creepy kind of way, but you'd never want to give one to a kid. The bulgy eyes and manic grin might even frighten actual zombies themselves. A Japanese painter who calls himself `Harajuku Matisse', sets up temporary shop outside a cafe and advertises `Free Portraits.' On display are examples of his work, all colorful ink sketches of beautiful women. When asked if he also makes free portraits of men, he replies, "Men very hard to draw."

All this is part of what makes the Walking Street so special - it's wacky, friendly and never, ever boring. Unlike many other markets in which the same products can be sold for years without change, this one is fluid and creative and wholly dependent on the caprice of the shopper. If no one buys your product or appreciates your act, you either go back to the drawing board or bow out and let someone else have a go. Additionally, the municipality requires that all products must be locally-produced, which is why most of the goods come straight from the producers and are consequently cheaper than anywhere else in the country. All this ensures that the Walking Street feels fresh, new and exciting from week to week.

Ambling Ambiance

The atmosphere on the Walking Street is just as colorful as its commerce. Most notably, this particular area of Chiang Mai is replete with gorgeous Buddhist temples, all which add to the serene-but-sensational atmosphere of the market. And despite the emphasis on immateriality in Buddhist doctrine, the creed is accommodating enough to allow sellers' stalls to spill over onto temple grounds. Indeed a significant portion of the items for sale employ spiritual iconography - paintings of the Buddha and revered monks, lucky amulets, and even fanciful Buddha jigsaw puzzles.

For a truly mystical experience, however, make sure to be on the street at six p.m., when the national anthem is played through loudspeakers. At this moment, everyone is obligated to stop walking and stand perfectly still. The effect is eerie, as thousands of people stop what they're doing and an unexpected blanket of peace falls over the entire area. Time seems to come to a complete stop. Never fear, as it starts up again after the song is over. If you're lucky you might see some random oblivious foreigner walking through the frozen crowd thinking he's completely lost his mind.

Skipping into the Future

Despite its remarkable popularity, the walking street has garnered a handful of naysayers. Some claim it causes traffic problems. Others say it gets far too crowded after nightfall. But probably the most vocal misgivings are about the quaint brick streets, installed to provide an old fashioned medieval look but which have since started to crumble under the weight of cars rolling over them the other six days of the week. Plans had been underway to repave the road with everyday asphalt but have since been postponed indefinitely - doing the job would take months and result in the loss of huge revenues. As it stands, repairs might just have to be done piecemeal for the foreseeable future. Alternatively - and this is just a thought - given the market's incredible success why not hold the Walking Street every day? Or go even further - permanently close off an ever-growing portion of the streets in the inner city to foot traffic and bicycles only. It's not an altogether absurd notion - some European cities make massive sections entirely off-limits to cars. The way things are going, the Chiang Mai Walking Street is sure to outgrow itself. I for one say yes. Let's vote with our feet!

Location:

The walking street is held on two main streets, Ratchadamnoen Road, which heads west from central Tha Pae Gate, and perpendicular Phra Pokklao road, which stretches from the Three Kings Monument past Wat Chedi Luang. A few smaller streets jutting off these main thoroughfares also participate.
For more information call 66 2250 5500 or email center@tat.or.th

Text & Images © Oliver Benjamin 2009