Chiang Mai (Northern Thailand) Tourist Guide


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LIVING IT UP:
Charcoa House
Bed and Breakfast & Restaurant
�A European Country Home in the Heart of the Old City�

Text: Finley B. Luge
Photos: Karin

Elegance

Two years ago a coffee addict friend of mine tipped me off about the excellent coffee that's grown in the surrounding mountains of Northern Thailand. Ever since, Charcoa House has become one of the handfuls of places around town that I frequent on a regular basis. Now, although the coffee, in particular the coffee caramel shake, was and to some extent still is the main draw for me, it's the food that I actually crave after a week or two without it.

In September 2004 Charcoa House Bakery & Restaurant was opened for business. What was originally an old dirty building out of which was sold local food to the neighbouring community soon became a European-style country home, immaculately designed and finished by the owner's daughter, Khun Atitaya, and her husband, who by chance both happen to be architects. So intent on naming their finished masterpiece Charcoal that when it was discovered a company already existed with that name, Khun Atitaya simply dropped off the "L" and created the name "Charcoa"

A name I believe to be well-suited to this distinctive modern eatery that is fast becoming one of the most popular places in town.

The modest space has been ingeniously arranged to fit twelve dining tables each with their own sense of privacy; two large tables are located in the garden, which is an ideal spot for an informal meeting of up to ten people, and the remainder seat from one to four people either in the heart of the house, in the quaint little conservatory, or in one of the other charming outdoor areas and open-air veranda.

Sabai or what?

Having devoted her time to the reconstruction of her mother's home, once completed, Khun Atitaya undertook a one-year course in Thai, French and Western cooking. For the first year after opening, she and her sister were the sole chefs at the restaurant. Later a baker and another chef were taken on who learned to reproduce the sumptuous dishes created by the talented proprietor, and what must rank as some of the best cakes in Chiang Mai (so good in fact, they are delivered to other coffee shops and restaurants around town).

Given the amount of visits made over the past couple of years it won't be too surprising to hear that I've sampled most things off the menu, and all the cakes that fill the fridge. The variety of dishes served makes Charoca an ideal location if you are struggling with ideas for what to eat. Breakfasts here are a mixed bag of hearty cooked fare like bacon and eggs and healthy options of fresh fruit muesli and yoghurt. Of the Thai cuisine red curry, masaman beef curry and fried rice covered with omelet are personal favourites, and from the international meals, spaghetti carbonara, duck breast in orange sauce, fillet steak, and all the salads are highly recommended. You must always try and leave room for desert here. White chocolate cheese cake, black forest gateaux and tiramisu are all equally perfect ways to bring closure to a meal; or can be enjoyed as an afternoon treat washed down with the now famous Charcoa coffee or a cup of herbal tea.

Two years after the restaurant and bakery was opened Charcoa House Bed and Breakfast became the latest edition to Chiang Mai's famous guesthouse scene. Its twelve rooms have very recently been totally remodelled to favour guests with a desire for somewhere slightly more up market of Bed & Breakfast.

All rooms have been individually decorated within a European courtier framework and similar to most luxury hotels have been fitted with 32" flat screen TV's, DVD players, Air Conditioning, fully stocked mini-bars, high speed internet (also available throughout the restaurant area) and safe boxes, and all include breakfast. There is a nuance of Lanna elegance at play throughout the rooms and elsewhere, but overwhelmingly the decor is European. Log beams appear on certain of the ceilings and there is a scattering of teak wood and local furnishings that complement the overall theme.

The eight deluxe rooms have been split into single & twin rooms, family rooms (with connecting doors), and the four studio suites come in two styles - one with a special bathroom, the other a special kitchen. All four have been ingeniously designed with the bedroom located upstairs on a mezzanine level, leaving the whole of the ground floor for a compact living space that includes a Jacuzzi, couches, working desk and chair, and a dining and kitchen area (that comes with a coffee maker). Other facilities at this mini hotel, aside from the adjoining restaurant and bakery from where room service is available, are the family mart, charming library and DVD rental.

For those looking for long term accommodation around the old city, all rooms are currently available for monthly rental and if you are quick you may well secure one. Otherwise you will have to make do with just a few nights stay here. But at the very least, head to the restaurant and treat yourself to a light lunch, afternoon tea or a relaxing dinner and I guarantee you will be back again and again and again�