Chiang Mai (Northern Thailand) Tourist Guide


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GOLFING WITH THE GHOSTS

Text & Images: GRAEME MONAGHAN

Gymkhana 2005

If you are a visitor to this fair city who enjoys a round or two of golf during your stay, there are any number of courses catering to your needs. One of the lesser known courses, however, is the Gymkhana Club, situated not very far from the centre of the town. In this picturesque setting you can play nine or 18 holes for far less than you will pay elsewhere.

But, as you tee off on the first hole you will do well to remember that you will be surrounded by the ghosts of those who trod this ground over this past century or more, as it was they who created this unique oasis in the heart of Chiang Mai.

For the Gymkhana Club is not just another multi-faceted sports facility but an integral part of the history of Northern Thailand.

Giant Raintree

On a warm April evening in 1896 twelve men sat down to discuss the formation of a sports club in Chiang Mai. The consequence of that long ago meeting is still with us today as it resulted in the formation of the Chiengmai Gymkhana Club; and it remains the oldest club of its type in all of Thailand. On the east side of the Ping River land was purchased by the twelve, plus two others, and later donated by Deed of Gift to the club itself so that in a remarkably short space of time it was operative.

In the intervening century plus it has been, and remains, so steeped in history that today we can walk almost directly into some of those times gone by. As we enter the portals of the Chiengmai Gymkhana Club we can almost feel the presence of the spirits whose dream of more than a century ago is the present reality. The interior of the club itself holds a wealth of old photographs and trophies for the interested viewer.

Although the origin of the name 'Gymkhana' is a little cloaked in mystery it is believed the word was taken by the British from India and relates to competition for horse riders. Indeed, that was the principal purpose of the founders, although cricket, athletics, tennis, and Bumble Puppy were included in the list of activities. Whatever Bumble Puppy was remains unknown to this writer at the time of writing and probably long after.

L.T. Leonowns

In front of, and to the left of the clubrooms stands a monument with a brass plaque listing the names of the original founders. The most famous of these is Louis T. Leonowens, whose mother Anna was the lady of Anna and the King of Siam fame. Louis was evidently as colourful a character as his mother, with whom he came to Siam in 1862 aged about seven. He was a childhood friend of King Chulalongkorn (Rama V), and at one time was engaged in an attack by the Shan people upon Lampang. With the aid of a Captain Jensen he successfully organised the defence of that city. He had an assortment of jobs in America and Australia then returned to Siam and set up the L. T. Leonowens Company which is still in existence today. He eventually died in England in 1919 and is buried in London. Apparently he was rather an irascible character and one founding member, Mr. J. Harper, resigned because he found Leonowens 'difficult'.

From that original April gathering a committee meeting was held on 5^th September and it was resolved that a Skye-meeting be held at the end of October. Things then moved along at a brisk pace insofar as the preparing of land and setting up of the club facilities were concerned. Hence a two- day race meeting, plus other sports, was held over Christmas 1898.

The following Christmas saw a highly organized race meeting with nine events. The races included some rather quaint sounding titles such as The Hurdle Race, The European Scurry, The Borneo Cup, The Pagoda Stakes, The Burmah Cup, and The Midget Stakes; although whether the last mentioned referred to the jockeys or the horses is unclear.

On the putting green

Although Khun Phya Song Suradej was among the founding members, the club was intended almost exclusively for Europeans and Foundation Rule IV expressly stated that 'the Club shall be vested in a Committee of five Europeans'. Among these were to be the British Consul, a member of the Bombay Burmah Trading Corporation, a member of the Borneo Company Limited and a member of the Forest Department. These four were to elect a fifth member of their choosing. All very democratic!

Needless to say, these days, those terms no longer apply and the club is run and attended mainly by Thai people, and rightly so. In the intervening century plus, the club has enjoyed the visits of many great and famous personalities. In 1905 a visit was made by King Chulalongkhorn The Great, which put the stamp of royal patronage on the place as well as the ensuing prominence.

British writer, W. Somerset Maugham, also called by while he was touring through the Chiang Mai district in the 1920s.

Practice Putting

In the late 1980s the committee permitted the use of the ground for the Chiang Mai International Cricket Sixes tournament, and many of the world's most famous cricketers, including Dennis Lillee, Alvin Kallicharan and Graeme Pollock have played there from time to time. The event has now become one of the world's major events of its kind.

Disaster struck the Gymkhana Club in 2005 when three disastrous floods in the space of six weeks left almost the entire surface area covered with 10cm of acidic silt. Only the superb efforts of several stalwarts of the club saved the day by removing tonnes of silt and eventually recovering the surface with new grass, and it is now better than before. The cricket oval was totally restructured and in 2008 hosted no less than five international tournaments.

No story of the Gymkhana Club could be told without mention of the magnificent tree that stands in front of the clubrooms. When the club was established this tree was mentioned then and referred to as 'the old tree' and that was more than 100 years ago. So large are some of the lower branches that they must be propped up by strong poles to prevent them from breaking off. Some seven or eight years ago I stepped out the width of the tree by walking its shadow, and it was then at least 70 metres across. No one seems quite sure as to what kind of tree it is. Suffice to say it is a most beautiful creation of nature around which the club was born. (It is sometimes referred to as 'the rain tree')

Gymkhana 2009

Although horseracing is no more, there are excellent facilities for golf, tennis, squash, and cricket. The Gymkhana Club is well worth a visit and provides a chance to take a step back into a different kind of Thai history. You can drop in for lunch and a drink at any time and you will be welcome. You may even catch the whisper of a ghost passing by.